For forty miles north of Tulsa, the monotony of the plains is relieved only by clumps of spindly scrub oaks. Then comes quiet BARTLESVILLE , dominated by the extraordinary Price Tower (Tues-Sat 10am-5pm), designed by Frank Lloyd Wright in 1956 - an ugly, cantilevered green oddity at Sixth Street and Dewey Avenue, resembling a tall tree. The Frank Phillips Home , 1107 SE Cherokee Ave, built in 1908 by the founder of Phillips Oil, displays oil wealth at its gaudiest, with gold faucets, mirrored ceilings and marble floors (Wed-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; donation). More impressive is his Woolaroc Ranch , thirteen miles southwest in the Blackjack Hills, now a wildlife refuge and museum of Western art and history, where over sixty thousand artifacts are scattered through seven huge rooms. Paintings and decorative art line the walls, from Native American works to the epic Western scenes of Remington and Russell, while artifacts belonging to various tribes, pioneers and cowboys are gathered in too great an abundance to take in. Look out for the 95-million-year-old dinosaur egg, exquisite Navajo blankets, scalps taken by Native Americans, and Buffalo Bill's weathered saddle (June-Aug daily 10am-5pm; rest of year closed Mon; $5).

For lodging , choose between the Travelers Motel , 3105 SE Frank Phillips Blvd (tel 918/333-1900; $75-100), and the more upmarket Hotel Phillips , 821 S Johnstone Ave (tel 918/336-5600 or 1-800/331-0706; $75-100).